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Changing a cast iron bath is a rather laborious and cost-intensive process. Therefore, it is better to use the services of specialists who will restore the product, extending its life. The company is engaged in the restoration of bathtubs using effective methods.

We offer a cast-iron bathtub restoration service at the best price in Moscow

We have been repairing old cast iron bathtubs since 2003. Our company fulfills orders quickly and with high quality. A cast iron bowl can be upgraded in several ways. We offer services:

Acrylic liner;

Bulk bath;

Enameling.

Each of them has its own specific advantages. For the repair of a cast-iron bathtub, the most suitable coating is liquid acrylic, which is also called a “irrigation bathtub”. This technology consists in applying a special agent to the surface of the bowl. It dries evenly and forms a glossy snow-white surface with a service life of more than 10 years.

Sooner or later, but the time comes when it is no longer possible to postpone repairs in the bathroom, since the tiles or wallpaper on the walls have lost their appearance or, even worse, they began to lag behind the surface, and the metal pipes rusted. The desire to transform the bathroom becomes stronger, the more and more often you notice the most modern materials on sale that can turn an unsightly shabby room into a neat Euro-class room.

- this is a fairly large-scale, but still quite feasible event, if you follow the instructions and perform all types of work in stages. Considering that repair materials are not cheap, and practice shows that the cost of performing work will cost at least half the price of materials, it is worth making your own efforts and saving a very decent amount.

If you decide to independently carry out repairs in the bathroom, you must first find out in what sequence the construction work is carried out:

You should probably start with planning. You can draw up a sketch of the room and display in it what you would like to receive upon completion of the repair, including in the diagram all those planned for installation.

In this matter, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the old bath can be replaced with a new one, but there is an option and simply update it with an acrylic tab. In addition, if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is very small, but you want to make it more spacious, then instead of a standard bathtub, you can install a shower cabin complete with a corner sit-down bathtub.

Such a trial estimate will help to determine approximately the scale of the work being started, with the repair and finishing technologies, with the amount of materials needed, with the approximate timing of the entire planned volume. Of course, in the course of work in overall plan Certainly there will be some changes. In many respects, this will depend on the condition of the floor, walls, ceiling, pipes, and in order to see all this “beauty”, it is necessary to dismantle the old one.

Thus, the next step is to move on to removing the old finish and dismantling the old, unnecessary plumbing.

On given stage, in any case, the bath must be removed and taken out of this room so that it does not become an obstacle to repair and finishing work.

After dismantling, it is necessary to clean the room from construction debris. After cleaning, it is necessary to revise the walls and floor for its condition (for example, to clarify the need for a complete replacement of the coating or the possibility of limiting the repair of loose or exfoliated areas, cracks, crevices, etc.) everything that does not inspire confidence must be removed.
Then measurements of the premises are carried out, and on the basis of them a calculation is carried out and a list of necessary materials, consumables, tools, accessories is compiled.

Further, with a compiled list, which should include plumbing fixtures, pipes with all accessories, materials for construction and finishing work, you need to go to a specialized showroom. At the same time, we do not forget that finishing materials are usually purchased with a small reserve - about 15%.

Repairs (if necessary) of the surfaces of walls, floors, ceilings.
New water and sewer lines are being laid. For which, it may be necessary to cut the strobes with their subsequent sealing after the installation of the pipes.
If it is planned to bring in power points (installation of sockets), then similar manipulations are performed for them with cutting strobes, laying the cable in and subsequent termination.
Work in progress for the preparation of wall and floor surfaces for finishing work - waterproofing, plastering, puttying, pouring screed, etc. At the same stage, you can consider the placement of ventilation ducts, the installation of decorative boxes that will help hide the piping.
Further, work on the decorative finishing of the premises is sequentially carried out. The usual order is from top to bottom, that is, ceiling → walls → floor. In some cases, this order can be changed, for example, installation of a false ceiling → laying ceramic tiles on the floor → wall decoration with washable wallpaper or plastic clapboard.
The next important step is the installation of plumbing with appropriate sealing of all nodes and connections, the connection of household appliances (washing machine, shower, etc.).
And, finally, in the end, all accessories typical for the bathroom are fastened and hung in place - mirrors, hangers, cabinets, shelves, etc.

Even just a list of work performed is quite impressive. And now will get acquainted with the listed points closer.

Repair planning and acquisition of the necessary

Drawing up a draft design

Slotting is done with a grinder with a circle on the stone, and a perforator, according to pre-marked places on the walls.
Pipes are mounted from their entrance to the bathroom and are routed to the connection points of faucets, bathtubs and sinks, to other “water outlets”, for example, for a toilet bowl drain or for supplying water to a washing machine.
When installing a sewer pipe (usually PP pipe Ø 50 mm is used in bath conditions) it must be taken into account that it should be sloped towards the central sewer riser. It should also be extended for a washing machine located away from a sink or bath. If it is possible to install a washing machine next to the washbasin, then a tee (45 °) is installed on the sewer pipe, into which both drains are connected.

The pipes laid in the strobes are first filled with mounting foam - it will become additional protection against heat loss (for the hot water pipe) and from the formation of condensate on the surface. Then, after the foam has hardened, its excess is cut off, and a large layer of plaster is applied on top.

Wiring

To lay the electrical cable under the ceramic tiles, you will also have to make strobes. For safety reasons, the wires must be well insulated (the best option is VVGng), and besides, they are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.

The wires are laid to those sections of the surface of the walls and ceiling where lighting fixtures will be installed and (if provided).

Gates, as in the case of water pipes, are foamed and then plastered.

If it is supposed to finish the walls with panels along the crate, then the wires are also laid in a corrugated pipe, but placing them between the guides, it is not necessary to make strobes in this case.

After installation posting is done checking the correctness of its connection, and then it must be disconnected from the switchboard until the completion of all construction and finishing work in the bathroom. Exception - you can leave the connection point of the ceiling lighting, but in compliance with all the required safety measures.

After the layer of plaster on top of the sealed strobes from pipes and wires has completely hardened, you can proceed to the processing of walls and waterproofing work.

Wall processing

Since the bathroom is always “by definition” humid, it is not surprising that the joints of the wall and ceiling surfaces can very often be covered with black dots of mold. In order for such stains not to grow, they must be removed with a special tool.

After the layer of the "medicinal" composition has dried, it is applied to the walls and ceiling. It will impregnate the walls and become not only an additional protection against various fungal formations, but also create ideal conditions for the adhesion of adhesives to the wall.

The primer is applied with a roller or a wide brush. To fully guarantee the quality of processing, it is best to carry out this process in two layers (the second is applied only after the first has completely dried).

If the wall will be prepared for tiles, and notches will be made on it with an ax or hammer, then after this process the surface must be primed one more time.

Floor waterproofing

Waterproofing the floor in the bathroom is always the most important of the activities. In this room, as in no other, there is a high probability of various emergencies. Filling yourself up is half the trouble. But if the “flood” spreads to the neighbors from below, then this can end not only in a major scandal and proceedings, but, for sure, in considerable financial losses.

Waterproofing measures will not be in vain if there are no large cracks or crevices in the floor screed, especially at the junction with the walls. All these flaws must be eliminated first.

To do this, they are cut, treated with a primer, and then filled with sealant - this is the easiest way to get rid of them. Epoxy putty shows itself well as a repair compound - it quickly hardens and creates reliable “patches”.

If, in addition to sealing the cracks, floor leveling is required, then two problems can be solved immediately with the help of a bulk composition that will fill all the cut cracks and bring the level to an ideal horizontal. You can find out in detail how to conduct it correctly by going to a special article on our portal.

After the floor is ready, you can proceed to its waterproofing. There are many interesting technologies, but the most affordable is the coating method. Work in this case is carried out as follows:

Along the edge of the floor and the bottom of the walls (about 150 — 200 mm) a special composition is applied thickly with a brush, so that there are no gaps.
Then, a waterproofing tape is glued (embedded) on the freshly applied layer in the area of \u200b\u200bthe junction of the wall and floor, since it is the joints that are the most vulnerable to leaks.

After the corner strips of waterproofing have dried, the entire floor and walls are covered with the composition to a height of up to 150 mm. It is advisable to perform this procedure, for insurance, in two layers.

Such waterproofing creates an elastic film on the floor surface, like a solid "trough" - this can protect the floor from leaks.

« Warm floor" in the bathroom

If it is planned to make a "warm floor" in the bathroom, then you can choose one of two options suitable for this - it is electric or water from the heating system.

The best option for an electric underfloor heating in a bathroom is mesh mats with a heating cable laid on them in a zigzag pattern.

The convenience is that such heating can be placed under a thin screed or even directly under ceramic tiles (quite a bit, thickening the layer of tile adhesive by 5 ÷ 8 mm). It is recommended to lay insulation with a foil surface under the mats, especially if the apartment is located on the ground floor and the floor is cold.

Such mats are connected to a special thermostat, which allows you to accurately control the surface heating temperature. The convenience of such a floor lies in the fact that it can be turned on at any time, both in summer and in winter, unlike a floor powered by a heating system. Its disadvantage is the cost of electricity.

The mats are fixed to the floor with double-sided adhesive tape, and a solution is laid or poured on top of them (this can be an ordinary concrete composition or self-leveling), or tile adhesive.

Another option for a “warm floor” for a bathroom is a water circuit connected to a heating system. Such a floor will be warm only during the heating period, but you will not have to pay for heating at all.

Laying and filling the water circuit of the "warm floor"

When installing such a “warm floor”, the pipe is bent with a snail or snake and fixed on a reinforcing mesh or placed between the bosses of special mats. An important condition which should be observed is the integrity of the pipe, that is, it must not have joints throughout the entire length of the circuit. On the surface of the floor in the bathroom - this is easy to do, since the area is very small. In addition, you need to know that the pipe is not laid under the bath - it is absolutely pointless. It should be located only in those areas where it is possible to put the bare feet of the owners on the floor.

Connecting a "warm floor" to the heated towel rail circuit is not welcome

By the way, sometimes the ends of the “warm floor” circuit are connected to the pipes going to the heated towel rail, that is, to the hot water central. Is this permissible? From a technological point of view, yes. But from the point of view of unauthorized extraction of thermal energy for floor heating, very serious legal problems can arise.

In any case, before installing a water "warm floor" in an apartment with a centralized supply of hot water and heating, you need to make inquiries at the company involved in the operation of housing. Surely you need to do whole line certain technical conditions.

More comprehensive information can be obtained by clicking on the link to the relevant publication of our portal.

Wall alignment

Before leveling the walls, it is best to cover the finished screed on the floor (if it was done before) with plastic wrapso as not to smear it with plaster or adhesive. You can level the walls using ordinary plaster according to the installed beacons, but it is easier to mount on glue on gypsum base and fix moisture-resistant drywall to the wall.

If raw plaster is selected, guides are installed on the wall, which will become a guide when leveling using the rule.

How to do this work correctly, and which way to choose in a given situation, you can find out from the article published on the pages of our portal.

Drywall will align the wall well if it is not deformed, but has only slight irregularities. If there is a significant curvature of the plane, then it is likely that the material will simply repeat it, but will not align it.

To glue drywall to the wall, you first need to spot glue on the wall. On one square meter of the finished area, 5 ÷ 6 slides are applied to the casting composition.

Then a sheet of drywall is applied to the wall and pressed well. Gypsum-based adhesive sets quickly, so drywall will quickly be fixed in position.

The installation of this material on the walls with glue is carried out in order to save space. But in that case. if the area of the bathroom is large enough, you can fix it on a crate - wooden or made of galvanized metal profiles.

Alignment of wall surfaces is carried out in cases where tile laying will be carried out further. If the walls are planned to be finished with PVC panels, then the walls are not leveled with plaster, and a crate is installed on them immediately according to the level.

Installation battens

crate on the walls of the bathroom is installed from wooden slats or galvanized metal profiles. It is much easier to attach PVC panels to a wooden crate, so they are used more often for a frame. For the lathing, slats with a section size of 40 × 15 mm or 50 × 20 mm are used. They are fastened at a distance of 300 ÷ 500 mm from each other.

In the event that the ceiling is planned to be made suspended, metal profiles with special suspensions will be the best solution for it. By the way, no one forbids using these hangers for installing wooden slats on which the facing panels will be fixed. The main thing is to securely and firmly fix these brackets to the ceiling surface.

A suspended ceiling is especially necessary if spot-type lighting fixtures are built into it, which will be "drowned" to the level of the decorative surface. Therefore, it is necessary to measure in advance the height of the luminaire planned for installation in order to lower the level of the crate to exactly this distance.

Wooden slats, which are used for battens, must be treated with an antiseptic water-repellent compound.

After installing the rail system on the ceiling, you can proceed with the installation of PVC panels, since this preparatory work finishes and finishing procedures begin.

Finishing work

Ceiling

Finishing the bathroom with decorative materials begins with the ceiling. If ceramic tiles are later laid on the walls, then you need to immediately arrange the transition from one material to another, delimiting it with a corner. The corner is attached around the entire perimeter of the ceiling in such a way that a kind of frame for the ceiling panels is created.

When the panels are installed in pre-planned places, it is necessary to cut holes for installation. They are made using a wood crown, which is installed on an electric drill ( screwdriver).

Further, electric cables are pulled out through the hole, to which special lighting fixtures for suspended ceilings are attached, having clamps in the form of spring-loaded "lugs".

Floor

Each master chooses the sequence of work on his own, but it is recommended that the first thing to do is lay the tiles on the floor, and only after that move on to the walls.

Laying tiles is carried out on a special cement-based tile adhesive. Work starts from the door and wall, which will be in sight. The process takes place in this order so that the incomplete, cut tiles, which will inevitably be, would be in the far corners, closed by the bathroom, cabinets, etc., and not spoil the whole picture.

Calibration crosses are installed between the tiles during laying, which will withstand the same thickness of the joints over the entire surface. They are pulled out only after the glue has dried.

The adhesive is applied to the floor surface with a size of one ÷ two tiles, distributed in one direction with a notched trowel. Many masters recommend that when laying on the floor, it applies another layer of glue to the tile itself. Laying in this case is carried out so that the direction of the grooves on the floor is perpendicular to the grooves on the tile. This method gives a full guarantee that there will be no air voids under the tile.

After laying the tiles, if necessary, they are tapped with a rubber mallet through a bar laid on two tiles at once, thereby aligning them in one plane. Controlling the laying of each tile with a level is a must.

Another way to achieve a smooth surface without internal voids is with special clamps that are used instead of crosses.

Video: laying tiles with plastic clamps

They solve two problems at once - they maintain the same thickness of the seams and forcibly bring adjacent tiles to the same level. If they are used immediately, from laying the first tile to the last, the surface is guaranteed to be even. These devices are used not only for tiling the floor - it is also quite suitable for walls.

After the tiles have been laid on the floor and the adhesive has set, the tile joints are rubbed. If the seams have filled with glue during installation and fitting, they must be cleaned with a special scraper, and then sweep out the residue using an old toothbrush.

Further, the cleaned gaps are filled with grout (diluted or ready-to-use fugue), the excess of which must be immediately removed from the surface of the tile. It is undesirable to delay with this, since after the fugue has dried, it will be much more difficult to clean it off.

After completing the floor cladding, the gaps remaining between the extreme tiles and the wall must be cleaned to the full depth and filled with sealant.

Instead of floor tiles, some apartment owners prefer plank or laminate flooring. These are also, by and large, acceptable options, but you need to remember that wood, and especially laminate (MDF), do not really like moisture. If you lay a plank floor, then the material for it must be pre-treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds, and when using laminated panels, pay attention to the admissibility of the material for laying in rooms with high humidity. And yet - it is better not to experiment, but to dwell on a ceramic coating.

wall decoration

Ceramic tiles are also the most popular finishing material for walls in the bathroom, as they are quite durable and easy to clean. Recently, PVC panels have become no less popular for wall cladding in the bathroom. True, they will last a shorter period than tiles, but the price of polymer material is incomparable, and the installation of panels is much easier and faster.

PVC panels are a gain in price and in the speed of finishing

The panels are produced with various patterns, and some models, by the way, imitate ceramic tiles very reliably.

Tile

Laying tiles on the walls is a rather complicated process, and if it is performed by a beginner, then there is a risk of making many mistakes. Therefore, taking this job should not be in a hurry. To help beginner tilers, there will be the already mentioned clamps, which will not allow the surface of one tile to protrude above or below the next one.

Laying tiles starts from the floor. You need to understand that the first row sets the correctness and evenness for everyone else, so you need to accurately set the horizontal line of its installation with control from using the building level.

The tile adhesive is applied to the wall with a notched trowel under the laying of three to four tiles. Do not rush and cover too large an area with the composition, especially with insufficient practice, since the solution sets quickly enough.

After full wall cladding, the seams between the tiles are rubbed in the same way as when laying on the floor.

Before laying tiles in those areas where water pipes will pass through the walls or there will be water “sockets”, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the right places on the tile using a drilled diamond crown installed in the cartridge or “ ballerinas».

PVC panels

If PVC panels are chosen for finishing, then they are fixed to the crate mounted on the walls earlier. The installation itself is not difficult - the panels have a simple and understandable “groove-thorn” system, and all fasteners (screws, studs or stapler brackets) are completely hidden when installing each next strip.

Plastic panels - very easy to install

Above and below (with the vertical arrangement of the panels) starter strips are installed, which will hide the unsightly trimmed ends and give the interior design completeness.

In addition, special fittings are provided for interior and outside corners, as well as vertical and horizontal edges of the finishing material.

When installing finishing PVC panels, you need to remember that the evenness and, accordingly, the appearance of the wall covering depend on the first strip ideally set vertically or horizontally (depending on the laying direction). In this case, each subsequent element t is also necessarily checked for verticality.

Holes for pipes in plastic panels are much easier to make - they are easily drilled with a screwdriver and a crown of the right size, or even simply cut out with a construction knife.

Video: bathroom renovation using PVC panels

Completion of work - installation of plumbing

After the completion of the installation of finishing materials on the walls, all plumbing fixtures and accessories are installed in their regular places - a bathtub or shower cabin, a sink, as well as faucets for them. The processes are discussed in great detail in a special section of our portal.

After installation, alignment and secure fixation of the bath, it is connected through a siphon to the sewer, and after mounting the mixer on eccentric sockets, it is checked for leakage.

After that, it is necessary to close the gap formed between the wall and the bathroom - this is done using silicone, tiled or plastic skirting boards.

Further, if desired, a screen is mounted under the bathroom. It can be mounted on a wooden frame assembled from a bar, or laid out from gypsum boards or blocks and lined with ceramic tiles. For some models of bathtubs and their purchase, you can immediately purchase a metal frame to secure any selected decorative finish.
Wash basin is installed. If the "tulip" model is selected, then the water flexible pipes are closed with a ceramic support leg.
If you choose a regular sink, you can pick up a bedside table under it, which will hide all unsightly knots and become a storage place for detergents. If in countertop bedside tables holes for installation of the sink bowl no, it will have to be measured and cut out.

Before installing the sink, turn it over and place it on the countertop of the cabinet to circle the cutout with a pencil. Next, the width of the strip running along the edge of the sink is determined, and this distance is also transferred to the countertop inside the outlined semicircle from the marked line. It is on it that the hole for installing the sink will be cut out.

If the sink is wider than the cabinet, then you will have to correct the front panel of the cabinet, and after installation, seal the gap between the cabinet and the sink with white silicone.

Then the sink faucet is connected to the water supply, and the drain to the sewer.
If it is in the plans - a washing machine is installed. It is also connected to a plumbing "socket", that is, to a fitting specially prepared for it.

Finishing can be completed by installing a new beautiful ventilation grill or, to enhance the effect, a ducted exhaust fan (in this case, it has a power connection point in advance)

Finishing touches - bedside tables, mirrors, hangers, shelves and other accessories

And the last step in the bathroom is hanging in place all the accessories necessary for this room, such as mirrors, shelves, cabinets, hangers, soap dishes, etc.

Making repairs in the bathroom is not so easy, despite the small size of the room. However, with the necessary efforts and diligence and having the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to cope with this. Self-made repairs will become the pride of the owner, and in addition, it will save a considerable amount.

Video: bathroom renovation - a beginner's guide

Over time, all cast-iron bathtubs turn yellow, scratches, chips, and abrasions from the “fifth limbs” appear on them. But this is no reason to be sad! Baths, like batteries, are also being restored.

In this article, we will describe several options for how to return an old cast-iron bathtub to its former youth. They are also applicable to a steel bath.

This is the cheapest way to restore cast iron bathtubs. After all, 1 liter of high-quality liquid enamel for a steel or cast-iron bath costs about 500 rubles. In addition, you can take an enamel hardener, which costs between 500-1000 rubles.

Instructions for repairing bathtubs by applying an enamel coating or filling with liquid acrylic, find on our website at

In addition to it, you will need abrasive powder (cleaning agent with granules or fine sand), rust converter, alcohol, and preferably white alcohol, which is not so pathetic.

As well as tools: an electric drill with a grinding nozzle, sandpaper, brushes with natural bristles, a respirator and gloves, a lint-free cloth.

Cleaning damaged enamel

Instructions on how to apply enamel on a cast iron bath such. Consists of two stages. First you need to prepare the surface:

Prepare your bath first. To do this, sprinkle the old enamel (its entire area or partially - in places of chips, scratches) with abrasive and clean off the top layer with sandpaper or a grinding wheel. There is no need to remove all the enamel to the ground.
Treat the rusty areas with a rust converter (moisten a cloth in it and wipe the bath with it), and clean it again after half an hour.
Wash off the enamel crumbs from the bath and degrease with white spirit.
Then fill the bath with hot water - let it warm up for about 10 minutes. So the enamel will lie better and adhere to the surface more strongly.

After draining the water, wipe the tub dry with a lint-free cloth.

Applying enamel to the sides of the bath

Applying enamel (second stage) is faster than preparing for it:

Mix the hardener with the enamel in the right proportion (usually 1:4).
With an interval of 30 minutes, apply layers to the cleaned surface with a brush or spray.

How many layers should there be? The minimum is 2, but it is better when 4. So the enamel will not wear out quickly.
After 5-7 days you can already take a bath.

If everything is done correctly, the enamel will last you 6-8 years. But not a fact. That it does not turn yellow during this time - it is undesirable to rub it strongly - wipe the hole.

Option 2: liquid acrylic

If you want the bath to serve you for at least another 20 years, then fill it with liquid acrylic (or glass). It costs, of course, more expensive - together with a hardener - 1500-1700 rubles. But the effect, you know.

Pouring acrylic into a cast iron bath

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs with acrylic is done as follows:

Prepare the bath, as in the first case.
Thin the acrylic with the hardener as directed on the package.
Remove the siphon from the bath and put a container there - the “extra” acrylic will merge into it, which can also be used later.
Start pouring acrylic over the top edge of the tub. As soon as the jet reaches the middle of the inner wall, move the jar of acrylic around the perimeter until you make a full circle.

Then water the bath in the same way around the perimeter. But so that the jet does not fall on the edge of the bath, but on the middle of the walls.

Try to work continuously, otherwise the acrylic in some area may seize and stains will result.

Stacryl dries from 1 to 4 days, depending on the brand. But more is better than less. Glass that dries for a long time is of better quality.

Option 3: acrylic liner

An acrylic liner is a molded form of acrylic that is inserted inside an old tub. For a cast-iron bath, it lasts about 10 years (after this time, the liner may begin to peel off from the base and water will flow under it). And for steel - much less. After all, the last wall is thinner. And it is more susceptible to all sorts of vibrations - cracks appear on the liner from them.

Installing an acrylic liner in a cast iron bath

Of course, the insert cannot be made at home. But you can install it:

Wash and degrease the surface
Give the liner the final fitting: insert it into the tub, trim the edges and cut out a hole for the drain
Apply special adhesive to the inside of the tub and the outside of the liner. Matching begins!
After installing the liner in, seal the joints with silicone and pour cold water into the bath - to the very edges - for a day, so that the liner sticks properly.

The price of an acrylic insert without installation and installation is about 3-4 thousand rubles.

To all of the above, we conclude: the most effective method restorations - self-leveling acrylic.

But it is worth noting that it will last 20 years if you blow off dust particles from it! The forums complain that it scratches a lot.

Are you remodeling your bathroom and want to replace your old cast iron bathtub with a new acrylic or steel one? Do not rush, modern products of this type, although they have an attractive appearance, are still significantly inferior in terms of their operational and technical characteristics. You can even say more - they are far from the cast-iron bath. It is for this reason that it is worth considering the issue of repair - this pleasure is inexpensive and, most importantly, affordable for independent implementation.

Cast iron bath cover repair photo

Do-it-yourself cast-iron bath repair: preparation

There are three technologies that allow you to solve the question of how to repair a cast-iron bath at home - these are fundamentally different methods that involve the use of different materials. They have almost nothing in common, except preparatory phase. Oddly enough, but it is the same, and in any case it will not be possible to avoid it - moreover, the quality of the repair and its durability largely depend on this stage. Such training does not involve complex work and looks like this from the outside.

I completely forgot, before finally degreasing the surface of the bathtub, you need to remove the siphon from it - free the drain and overflow hole, carefully treat the space around it with abrasive material, wash off the debris and only then degrease it. Naturally, this time instead of a siphon, you will have to use a basin. Only after the bath is completely dry (this happens within a few hours), it will be possible to start work on restoring the old enamel. This is very important - the bath must be perfectly dry. And the drying process can even be accelerated with a fan heater.

Repair of a cast-iron bathtub with enamel: subtleties and nuances

This is the most simple and simultaneous hard way restoration of the cast-iron bath coating - it can be carried out using two types of materials. These are ordinary enamels in jars (but in no case use enamel in cylinders - it is only good for new baths, the coating of which has not yet grown old) and the so-called Stakryl, the technology that uses this tool is called a bulk bath. The latter option is less problematic in terms of self-application - the main thing here is to evenly pour the coating over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe bath, and the ideal surface is obtained automatically due to the properties of this material. But let's talk about everything in order, and first you need to deal with a cheaper technology that involves the use of conventional enamel.

You can see how an old bathtub is being repaired with Acrylic in this video.

By the way, Stakryl is also great for repairing acrylic bathtubs - with its help, you can even patch holes in products of this type, but this requires a certain practice of using it. In general, if we talk about the complexity and reality of self-repairing a cast-iron bath using the technologies described above, we can only say one thing - difficult, but real. As mentioned above, the biggest challenge here is getting a uniform and attractive finish. In a good way, having no experience in this matter, it is better to turn to specialists in this matter.

Repair of a cast-iron bathtub with acrylic photo

How to repair a cast iron bath: liner

Repairing a cast-iron bath with acrylic is a good option, but there are simpler technologies that allow you to update the bath, as they say, in a jiffy. Moreover, for independent implementation, this is the most suitable and simple option. It consists in installing an acrylic liner in an old bathtub - the work is simple, but not without subtleties.

In principle, this is the whole technology of installing an acrylic liner in an old cast-iron bath - the bath must be under pressure for a day, after which it can be used. Unlike previous technologies, which provide for a rather long process of enamel drying, this technique allows you to use the font after a day. She has one drawback - the acrylic liner sags somewhat under the weight of a person, which confuses most people. But most often this moment is due to the quality of the installation - in a good way, there should not be strong deflections here. If they are, then the adhesive has not completely filled the space between the liner and the tub.

In conclusion, there is not so much left to add about the repair of a cast-iron bathtub - despite the seeming simplicity of performing such repair work, one should not underestimate their complexity. In fact, this is a rather laborious work, replete with a mass of nuances, which will be more expensive not to take into account. You need to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, and at the slightest doubt, it is better to abandon the idea of \u200b\u200bself-repair.

Replacing a bathtub is a very expensive and troublesome undertaking, associated with great difficulties, but quite tangible financial costs. That is why most of those who started a repair (especially not a major one, but a cosmetic one) are looking for alternative ways to give this plumbing product a neat look again. How to restore an old cast-iron bath - know, of course, the masters of this field. But it is quite possible to do most of the work yourself.

When is it time to refurbish a bath?

A cast-iron bath is a standard of quality, strength, and reliability in the plumbing world. No wonder it is advised to install products from this alloy in apartments. In many houses built back in the Soviet Union, just such bathtubs were installed. And such baths are used to this day. Also, a cast-iron product is comfortable to use: it does not create noise, unlike, for example, a thin-walled iron bath. Yes, and it is pleasant to wash in it - the bath retains the heat of the water poured into it much longer than others.

Unfortunately, even seemingly eternal things wear out over time. And a cast-iron bath is no exception. At the same time, it is not she who deteriorates, but the coating - enamel, with which the structure was covered at the factory. And this special paint, applied using a special technology, begins to lose its appearance, and its performance is deteriorating.

On a note! Cast iron bathtubs are enameled during production after strong heating. It is due to this that it is possible to obtain a high-quality coupling of the base with the coating.

Here are some signs that it's time to upgrade your bathtub.

Roughness of the inner surface. It is much more pleasant to step on smooth enamel than on a pumice stone resembling the touch.
Bathtub cleaning is getting harder. The reason is the very rough surface on which an ordinary sponge no longer slides easily and pleasantly. Cleaning a bathtub takes a lot of effort.
Dirt and rust quickly and strongly eat into the enamel due to the loss of smoothness.. In some cases, contamination cannot be removed at all.
The appearance of chips and cracks on the enamel surface.

Attention! Enamel chips are dangerous for the entire structure. The fact is that the enamel paint protects the cast iron from the effects of water and aggressive chemicals for cleaning plumbing. In places of chips, rust forms quite quickly and gradually begins to spread throughout the structure right under the enamel.

It is these signs that inform the owner of the bath that it is time for her to “rest”. But do not rush to dismantle it and throw it away - the bath can be reanimated! And for this, there are three fairly simple and, moreover, relatively inexpensive ways - this is the use of an acrylic liner, the “filling bath” technique and enamel renewal.

Three ways to update your bath

All these methods differ from each other in price, quality, speed of work and complexity of implementation. But it is worth considering them all to choose the one that suits you best. Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are important to know in order to make the right choice.

We paint the bath

Self-enamelling or, more simply, painting the inside of the bathtub with special coloring compositions in order to renew the coating is one of the oldest restoration methods that has already been tested by time.

Works are carried out with a brush and special restoration kits, which include directly and a hardener for it, also in the kit there can be colors of various colors that will allow you to change the color of the bath and make it as harmonious as possible in a certain color scheme of the interior. By the way, such coloring pigments can be bought independently, and then simply added to the coloring composition diluted according to all the rules.

The paint is applied to the surface of the bath, previously cleaned of dirt and rust. Before starting work, it is advisable to grind the walls with a grinder, wash, and then degrease with any means (for example, acetone).

Important! Before the enamel is applied, the bath is well warmed up. This can be done with a hair dryer or by typing hot water into it. However, after using the second method, the surface of the structure will have to be well dried. Otherwise, the paint will not lay down as it should.

It is most convenient to work with a brush, but there are also those compounds that are perfectly applied to the surface of cast iron with a small paint roller. There are restoration compositions for enameling bathtubs and in aerosol cans, but they are not recommended for use on large areas, since the paint coming out of them often lies unevenly on the surface, therefore streaks may remain. By the way, some formulations, especially professional ones, may have increased or decreased fluidity, which can complicate the work of a beginner. Therefore, it is worth buying non-professional sets.

Attention! All compounds used for enameling baths are very toxic, and therefore it is important to work with a respirator and rubberized gloves. You should also ensure good ventilation in the apartment and remove children and animals from the house.

It will take about a week to completely restore the bath in this way. The fact is that the enamel is applied in several layers, and each of them should be well dried before applying the next. TO , you can read in our article.

Advantages	Flaws
A cheap and affordable way to restore bathtubs.	Enamel is sensitive to impact and breaks easily. Over time (and rather quickly) chips can appear.
Bath enameling work can be done independently, and the means for this are sold at any hardware store. You do not need to have special skills for applying enamel.	Enamel does not cover large irregularities - they need to be pre-finished.
During the work, the dismantling of plumbing is not carried out.	After a while, the white paint will begin to turn yellow.
This is a fairly quick way to restore the bath.	You need to take care of such a bathroom very carefully - do not use aggressive chemical and abrasive products for cleaning. Also, do not pour boiling water into the bath with such a coating.

The average service life of enamel is about 5 years. Therefore, if this method was chosen, one should be prepared for the fact that after this period of time the enameling will have to be repeated.

Acrylic liner

This method of bathtub restoration is actively used for cast iron products and is otherwise called “bath to bath”. A custom-made or purchased ready-made acrylic liner is inserted inside the old structure, which follows the contours of the plumbing structure. It is fixed inside with foam or special mastic, which is applied to the inner surface of the bath. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle the plumbing parts for draining.

Advice! For high-quality adhesion of the adhesive substance to the surface of the bath, it is best to clean and degrease it (surface).

The acrylic liner is one-piece, therefore, to begin with, it is inserted into the bath without glue, holes for the drain are marked, and then these holes are removed and cut. Then, having applied the adhesive composition to the inner surface of the bath itself, the liner is lowered there and glued.

Table. Advantages and disadvantages of the method.

Advantages	Flaws
Acrylic is a very durable substance, such a bath coating will be stronger than enamel.	The need to dismantle plumbing equipment.
The liner does an excellent job of hiding all the bumps and damage to the bath, making it smooth and beautiful.	Cannot be installed on structures made of thin metal. Such a metal can bend under the weight of water and a person, which is why the adhesive adhesion of the liner to the surface is easily broken.
Acrylic does not yellow over time.	Fairly high price.
Ease of installation.	The method has high requirements for the quality of materials - poor glue or a poor-quality liner can spoil the whole work.

The service life of the acrylic liner is approximately 15 years. However, this method of restoration is much more expensive than the previous one.

Video - Installation of an acrylic liner

acrylic coating

This method is also called "filling bath", because it is performed using a special technology using liquid acrylic. The substance is poured onto the prepared surface of the old bath. This is a fairly durable coating that resists daily exposure well, but still requires careful cleaning without the use of abrasives.

On a note! With liquid acrylic, due to its relative density and viscosity, it is quite possible to mask irregularities during the restoration of the bathtub.

"Pouring bath" - enough new method restoration, but already managed to fall in love with many, as it does not force the owners of plumbing to completely replace the cast-iron bath, but is easily done even with their own hands.

Hot tub - before and after

The advantages of the method lie in the durability of the coating, since acrylic is applied in a rather thick layer - about 5-6 mm. By the way, despite the density, it spreads well over the surface of the bath. It is also very pleasant to the touch and smooth.

How to restore the bath in this way? It's simple - follow our instructions.

Step 1. First you need to prepare a bath for work. Using a grinder, the old enamel coating is polished to a rough state.

Step 2 The bathtub is cleaned with a powder and a sponge and then rinsed. clean water.

Step 3 The drain system is dismantled both at the top and at the bottom of the bath.

Step 4 The surface of the bath is degreased with any degreasing agent. Acetone will do, as well as any other solvent. After that, liquid acrylic is prepared according to the instructions indicated on the package. The mixture must be very thoroughly mixed.

Step 5 It's time to start filling the bath. For the convenience of work, a little acrylic can be poured into a small container. In order not to stain the floors, the container is placed in the bath.

Step 6 Acrylic is poured onto the surface of the bath in a thin stream, starting from the corners and edges of the bath in a circle.

Step 7 The substance is poured in several layers. It should flow down the sides of the tub, evenly covering the sides and top.

Step 8 Using a spatula, the acrylic layer, starting from the middle of the bath to its bottom, is leveled. All "gaps" are covered. Acrylic is lifted with a spatula from the bottom of the tub. Thus, all the side walls and the bottom are worked out.

Step 9 The bath is left to dry - this period is at least 36 hours. All this time it is better not to touch it at all, otherwise you can spoil all the work.

Step 10 Lastly, when the acrylic dries, a drain system is installed.

Now you can use the product to your heart's content. The service life of the "bulk bath" varies from 8 to 15 years.

Video - Technique "Pouring bath"

Compositions for the "bulk bath"

A "bulk bath" can be made using two types of products - glass and liquid acrylic. They are different from each other, and a common mistake for beginners is to mistake them for the same substance.

Stakryl began to be used about 10-15 years ago. It is relatively inexpensive and has a fairly high strength. After applying it to the bath, it should be dried for at least 4 days - and already here you can see a clear difference between the substance and ordinary liquid acrylic, which has a shorter drying time. Stakryl is also afraid of mechanical damage, so it is important to handle the bathtub covered with it carefully and carefully.

Liquid acrylic, on the other hand, has recently appeared on the building products market. It has higher strength and resistance to various mechanical influences. The coating made from it retains a glossy sheen for a long period of time. By the way, the smell from it is much less sharp than from glass. Acrylic dries in just 36 hours.

In general, both materials can be used for the restoration of bathtubs and other plumbing. But you should definitely know the difference between them.

Summing up what has been said, it can be noted with confidence that it is quite possible for everyone to restore the bath with their own hands, restore its former grandeur and neat appearance without the use of drastic measures to replace the bath itself. But the service life of such updated products (or rather, their coatings), of course, is not so great.

Acrylic bath liner - installation steps

Hot tub - before and after